Since being on the fashion course at AUCB I have realised just how important illustration is in the fashion world. When I heard about this exhibition I decided it would be helpful to my studies if I looked at how Dior's illustrations are created and what the reasoning was behind them. I felt it would he helpful for our Professional Project, particularly looking at the New Look created by Dior.
'Rene Gruau created some of the most instantly recognisable and enduring fashion and beauty images of the 20th century. His iconic illustrations defined an era, capturing a new mood of post-war modernity and optimism. His bold lines and fluid style, simple flat planes of colour and daring use of negative space set a new graphic style and influenced a generation of illustrators.' - Somerset House exhibition booklet.
In 1960 there was a rise in fashion photography which changed the appearance of illustrations within the fashion industry. Dior chose to continue along the lines of illustrations and took an eye catching approach with daring compositions, making a break from classic illustration.Some ways in which Gruau went against tradition caused a shocked reaction from magazine readers. The Eau Savage advertisements show a man wearing very little, hanging his legs over a chair or being seen through the gap of a bathroom door. Back in 1966, this was too cheeky for the public eye.
'Gruau saw the New Look as a Revolution which had a liberating effect on fashion illustration. Accessories now played a key role in women's fashion, providing Gruau with the props to explore new gestures and attitudes' - Somerset House
At the end of the exhibition there was a group of artworks which were inspired by Gruau's work. These were my favorites:1: Mademoiselle 'shush', by Erin Petson.
'The woman is shushing but is she listening into a conversation or does she have a secret to tell? I wanted to keep it ambiguous'. What I love most about this painting is how completely free the brush strokes are against the tidy details within the face. The contrast is beautiful.
2. Leaning Woman, by Jasper Goodall.
The laser-cut 3D acrylic design really grabbed my attention because of how modern the artwork is. I instantly understood the link between Goodall's and Gruau's work.
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON:
'When I step into one of Matthew's dresses I feel like I am stepping into his world, which is colourful, ethereal and dreamlike.' - Sienna Miller
A display of Williamson's work in images, to coincide with the release of his book. It was set to celebrate Williamson's colour-drenched creations embellished with exquisite embroidery and beading.Photographs of his textile designs, celebrity fashion shoots, and mood boards, sketches and scrapbooks revealed his influences and inspirations.
The exhibition was really small but showed a lot of his lifestyle and thought process, I found it really interesting to see.
