Second Toile Review!

Feeling pretty confident now, if I'm honest!
Not too many changes, mostly just to sizes of pockets and I've been asked to incorporate the jacket style into a couple of other garments to keep the flow, but otherwise I think I did alright :]
I do however need to make each garment about 2cm bigger, because although everything is supposed to be a really tight fit, it was a struggle to zip up my models, which would be a problem for the show. Easily fixed, nothing to worry about!

I've been thinking about the styling for the crit. I have already purchased a brooch which I am going to use for decoration, I'm looking for another for the jacket though. I'm going to put ankle socks with ribbons on two of the models, and I've bought some plaited trimming which I'd like to create necklaces and bracelets from to use througout the collection. I will also be recreating vintage pattern envelopes to put my patterns in and making the design board in a similar way.

Fashion issues...

Days before Paris Fashion Week, John Galliano was suspended from Dior after he was accused of assaulting a couple and making antisemitic insults following a drinking session at a Paris bar.

"The House of Dior declares with the greatest firmness its policy of zero tolerance with regard to any antisemitic or racist statement or attitude," - Sidney Toledano, head of Dior.

The row began at around 9pm at the bar where Galliano was briefly arrested after allegedly accosting a couple.
Galliano, who took the creative reins of Dior in 1996, has been based in Paris for 20 years. Dior's quick action in suspending Galliano could be explained by a recent outcry over another racist remark under its parent company, LVMH.

This situation was magnified much more than it probably should have been. Galliano was wrong in what he said and Dior were fair to suspend him, but the pressure which was laid upon him, especially with the run-up to Fashion Week was likely the reason for his outburst. The media is the main culprit for blowing this situation out of proportion, which is unfortunately something that you have to be careful of in the fashion world. I think this is a lesson to everyone, to be careful of how you act, no matter where you are or what the situation is.

Devastating floods in Pakistan - one of the world's largest producers - and fears over this year's crop in China have sent cotton prices surging to 15-year highs in recent weeks.
The cotton crisis comes at a bad time for retailers, who are already battling against a range of factors, such as higher freight costs, wage inflation in China and the VAT rise to 20% in January. Higher cotton prices have a huge bearing on the cost of clothing, with fabric accounting for around 60% to 70% of product price.
A high-end high-street retail store said high cotton costs are likely to impact those at the value end of the market most and they hope to be able to absorb much of the price rises.

Being a designer, this is quite an important issue to me as it will affect my desicions whilst designing and purchasing fabrics. I would have to source the best fabric for the purpose I need, ensuring I do not waste too much time in order to keep it cost effective.

Advertising in the fashion industry can be blamed for many of society's problems with weight and eating disorders. There are many individuals in the world who do not have the ideal body type and the aggressive advertising campaigns waged by numerous fashion companies, portraying beautiful, skinny models and muscle clad men, create this illusion that this is the perfect body type.

This issue is something I would like to go against when it comes to designing in the future. I think that a curvier model always puts a happier perspective in a photoshoot or on the catwalk, they tend to fit in the clothes better, look happier and definately make the public feel better. Coleen Rooney tackled this issue with her TV series 'Real Women' where she used models who were larger than average, and it demonstrated well that it's not all about being stick-thin.

Five Year Plan

Year One:
I will have completed the foundation part of my course and start the third year, where I will complete a three month industry-based work placement as part of the course requirements. Over the summer I will work for a high-street store to gain experience and put some money into savings.

Year Two:
I will have completed my Ba Fashion Design and Technology degree and I hope to have a 2:1 or higher. Begin to find a job suited to my interest in fashion design. Pass my driving test. I will also be looking at places to move into with my boyfriend. Go to America for some travelling.

Year Three:
Have started a job within a design studio, either designing, constructing or pattern cutting. Continue with my own designing and look at creating another mini-collection. Will get engaged to my boyfriend and start saving for the wedding.

Year Four:
Start looking at any higher positions within the company I'm working for, and if there is little room for growth then I'll look at other possible jobs where I may expand on my learning and experience. Plan wedding.

Year Five:
Get married, go on honeymoon, consider children. Look back at position in current job and access whether I need to try for a higher position or change jobs. Decide whether I'm enjoying the career path and if I want to try something different. Perhaps look at how I could start my own business in fashion design.

PRAGUE!

This week we went to Prague for a course trip.
It exceded my expectations and I would definately go back, I had an amazing time.
I learnt lots of historical stuff, went on a tour, visited exhibitions, trawled through vintage shops and mingled with the rest of the course. I spent all the money I had and came back with some great souvenirs. I bought some buttons, beads and a brooch, all which I want to use within my collection.

The town hall in Old Town Square

The tower at the start of the Charles Bridge, joining Old Town to Lesser Town
The cathederal inside Prague Castle

The exhibitions I visted are: Geisha and Samurai, Native American, Sex Machines, Communist and Chocolate. All were very different from one another but I learnt a lot. My favorite was the Geisha and Samurai where I saw a collection of gowns, shoes, fans, swords and coins. I found it really interesting and the prints were beautiful.

London Fashion Week

LFW has been and gone. I kept up with the catwalks which were live streamed, I think it's a fantastic idea to allow the public to watch as it happens.
I enjoyed the Central St Martins one, because it was nice to see graduate collections being presented. Some of the collections were really well put together, I particularly liked the human fist and the fringing collections.


Unique (Topshop) was one of my favorites because the style and pricing is more aimed at me, the dalmation shoes were beautiful! I think they way they styled the collection was really sweet, from the ear-like buns to the painted noses and nails.

Ashish was the collection which caught my eye the most. I don't think there was anything particular that I would consider in my own style, but I loved how the garments looked completely different to any of the other live collections. I also really enjoyed the background music, I think they chose really good tracks for the garment style.

Fashion Careers

Two fashion career opportunities I found while browsing www.fashionworkie.com

ONE: 'Design consultancy based in East London seeks interns to work on high-end collection of one-off "upcycled" luxury vintage pieces for an exciting new project. The application is open to both students and graduates.

Required:
Good organisational skills
Eye for colour and initiative in suggesting embellishment ideas
Hand-sewing abilities
Experience cutting and working with delicate womenswear fabrics.
Any craft-related embellishment skills such as embroidery etc would be a bonus. Successful candidates will benefit from experience in a hard working, creative studio with lots to learn via a very fun project, interesting people to meet and the opportunity of handling beautiful lush archive vintage fabrics, garments and trims.'

This internship really appeals to me because it involves lots of skills which I know I have that I could put to good use and I'd be working with vintage fabrics, which is something I'm currently really interested in.

TWO: 'Lu Flux is an ethical fahsion designer based in London, she makes all of her garments out of organic, reclaimed and vintage materials. I am looking for a keen student with sewing and pattern cutting skills to assist in the run up to London Fashion Week. This will include seeing the new Autumn/Winter collection being realized, helping out with the photoshoot and filming of the lookbook, as well as helping at London Fashion Week. This opportunity would most benefit a fashion design student, who has a strong interest in designing and putting together a collection.'

Another designer working with vintage fabric who has really interested me. This placement would have been ideal because I'd use my current skills as well as learning some with the photoshoot and filming.

MY 'IDEAL' JOB:

We are seeking a Design intern to help bring our newest collection to live. You will gain first-hand experience of the workings of a small but busy fashion studio, and will have the opportunity to work on the SS12 collection from its inception through to production and presentation during London Fashion Week. You will need to be confident communicating with our customers and be happy working in part of a team but also able to initiative and work as an individual.
You must have a flexible approach, have great attention to detail and be able to work to deadlines and under pressure.
You should also be motivated, confident, easy-going, cheerful, hard-working, punctual, responsible, reliable and committed.

CV

Looked into CV's today... I've seen some new ways of presenting them, which has opened a new door, I've decided I need to spice mine up a bit!
I have created two CV's, one which is in a standard format, the other uses a creative layout. Both include the same information, but the standard one I can change easily to suit any job I am applying for, whereas the other one is specifically suited for fashion.
Here is the template of my creative CV:

First toile review!

Amazing result! I'm so pleased.
Have a few changes to make to lengths, bust shapes etc, but the overal fit was good. A few things that I need to test, for example coated cotton and netted underskirt. Am going to scan in my vintage fabrics and play with colour combinations on Kaledo.
Need to revisit fabric stores for a stretch denim for my super-tight trousers!
The review went pretty well. All my hard work definately paid off!

Second Toile

Here's my second complete outfit minus the straps to hold it up which will go on the final garment. The first dress will have a net underskirt to give volume, whereas this one will hang by itself.

Vintage photography

I found this amazing site which has some beautiful photos which were taken and edited to look as though they were taken in the 1970's.
The grainy texture and lomo effect creates a really lovely retro feel, which is something I am aiming to acheive with my photoshoot for my final collection.

http://www.eightyonedesign.co.uk/13-beautiful-examples-of-vintage-1970s-photography/

Vintage Coat Pattern

I just found this coat pattern from the 1950's, it was posted on another blog and is unfortunately something they've collected, rather than they're selling. It's exactly what I'm looking for to be my 4th outfit for my collection. Have spent the evening searching, but can't find anything similar :[

Catwalk shoes?

I found a pair of shoes by Red Herring which I think are an option for the end of year catwalk. The printed pattern is relevant to my fabrics and the style is very 70's relating to my theme of vintage style.
Here they are:

Inspiration from my friend.

I asked a friend who has previously been on a photography and graphics course, what he thought might be useful to me for my project idea. I thought it might be handy to have an outsiders opinion. This is what he came up with:

Pop Art

Damien Hirst

William Morris

David Choong Lee

First toile

Here's the start of my first garment. So far it's the bodice, and two front skirt panels. The bodice is tight fitting but currently has one layer, of three.

I tried two different methods of pleating the skirt. The vintage pattern I used was a size 14 (bust 32 - obviously the sizing has changed since 1955!) and on the hips, whereas I want it on the waist. I have reduced the waist size by 20cm in order for it to fit and I think it's still a little too big.

Mummifying...

We had our last workshop today where we used a technique called mummifying which is used in couture houses.

Here is the method, with photos that I took along the way:








I thought this was a great way to create a really tight fitting corset, but it was so time-consuming. I intend to make a mock-up of the corset to see if my pattern actually fits properly.

Specialist Practice Realisation

We received our SPR results today. I'm really pleased with my grade!
The improvements I should make are already things I knew to do, but I didn't leave enough time. I'm going to make a point to give myself enough time for the PP in order to get a higher mark.
I have decided to compile the research for the PP into a manual as well. I had the chance to explain my idea to my tutor today and she's really excited about it, so I've been given a bit of a confidence boost.

Fashion as a Forum

First session on this subject today... weren't expecting Sarah James! I'm sure she'll be interesting in this topic, she usually has a lot to talk about.
So far, I feel completely lost. I understand what the topic is about, but I'm not clear on the content of the essay we have to write. Tutorials next week, Sarah said she'll explain it better to me then.

Mens shirt & ethical lecture.

Workshop on mens shirts, will be handy for making the boyfriend a present! Found it quite easy and was interesting to make, paritcularly the cuff.
Also had a lecture by a company called Offset Warehouse. The lecture seemed a bit long with too much information crammed in but I thought the actual content was really good. I felt like I learnt a lot about ethical fabrics and sourcing. There were some fabrics passed around the theatre that I felt, some were surprisingly nice, for instance nettle. I now feel more inclined to look into ethical fabrics for the future.

Last of the workshops

Back to uni this week, straight on with more samples.
Began with a couple of pockets, I thought it was really handy to learn the jean-style pocket. It was much easier than I thought it'd be.
I've already made two bodices before, but I thought it'd be good to practice. We learnt the couture version which I've never tried and I really liked the method. I know I will use it in my collection.